Of course, everyone knows (and visits) the big sites of the Roman Empire… but a 15 minute taxi from Termini train station brings you to a spot where tourists number in the tens, not tens of thousands, and you can wander the very stones tread by the Romans.

The Appian Way was one of the earliest Roman roads, starting at the Roman Forum and continuing to Brindisi, a town on the heel of Italy’s boot. It was built beginning in the 4th century BCE for quick and efficient troop movements, and because it was illegal to bury or cremate the dead within city walls, the area along the road just outside the Roman walls soon became lined with mausoleums. It was also along this stretch of road that 6,000 slaves were crucified after Spartacus’s attempted rebellion.

The first 2 miles of the road after the Roman gate are heavily trafficked, so it’s best to start your visit at one of the catacombs. We chose the Catacombs of Saint Sebastian, where you can tour both the underground Christian burial tunnels and a later church that houses the tomb of Saint Sebastian and one of the arrows that shot him (check out the amazing carved wood ceiling!). They also have a nice little cafe for drinks and snacks.

Stepping outside St. Sebastian’s, fill your water bottle from the fountain across the street then turn left and follow the road away from Rome.

The first 1/2 mile is still busy with vehicles, but quickly becomes very scenic, passing sites that you can explore, such as the Tomb of Caecilia Metella and the Circus of Maxentius.

Soon after, most of the traffic turns off, the road narrows, and you are in the countryside surrounded by fields and the occasional Roman relic.

Look down – those are the original Roman paving stones still showing the ruts from centuries of horse drawn vehicles.

Our June visit coincided with wildflower bloom, so we walked through poppies with the sound of chirping birds, the scent of jasmine, and the occasional feline companion. A totally different experience from the wall to wall tourists in central Rome.

Tips:

Bike rentals are available, but although they allow you to cover more territory, it comes with a very bumpy price! The cement is long gone from between the stones, making walking a more enjoyable way to explore.

The road is closed to traffic on Sundays, making it easier to walk, but more crowded with people. We enjoyed our Monday afternoon stroll, encountering few cars and fewer people.

You can easily take a bus back to central Rome, but be sure to get tickets before you head out. There are few places to buy them along the Appian Way and you can’t purchase them on board.