Note: The butterfly portion of this trip can only be done November-January.

There are so many wonderful, but touristy, things to do as you drive along the Pacific Coast Highway, so take an hour or two to step off the beaten path once you get to Carmel-by-the-Sea, the little town on the Monterey Peninsula that had Clint Eastwood as a former mayor.

Grab breakfast from one of the local bakeries, pull up a map (there are many online) then head out on a walk to see the town’s storybook cottages. Unlike the mission-style so prevalent elsewhere in California, Carmel is known for its adorable cottages that look like they stepped out of a fairytale.

The first were built by Hugh Comstock in the 1920s, starting with a cottage to house his wife’s doll making business. Comstock built 20 additional cottages, and other builders followed. A short stroll around this walkable town will allow you to appreciate all the quaintness up close.

For more immersion, you can eat at the Tuck Box located in one of the cottages (cash only), or even stay the night in Storybook Cottage, which is a VRBO.

Once you’ve had enough quaintness, hop in the car for a 15 minute drive to the Pacific Grove Monarch Sanctuary. This small park is one of the most important sanctuaries for overwintering Western Monarch butterflies. Take a few minutes to study the map at the entrance. Basically, all Monarchs east of the Rockies winter in Mexico. Those west of the Rockies winter in Southern California. It’s interesting to note that the northern limit of milkweed (and thus Monarchs) almost directly corresponds with the US/Canada boarder. Odd coincidence!

Each year’s over-wintering monarchs are the great-grandchildren of the butterflies that left last spring. There are about four generations of monarch butterflies each year. They overwinter in the warm areas along the coast, then fly north and east following the growth of milkweed each season- it’s the only plant the caterpillars eat. Most adult monarchs live for only 2-6 weeks, except these over-winterers who can live up to six months.

Look up as you walk along the path. The butterflies hang out in the trees overhead, coming down to feed when temperatures reach 60 degrees. It’s hard to take good photos, but everything that looks like a brown leaf in these pictures is actually a butterfly resting in the pine trees.

Through a spotting scope:

After a short stop in Carmel and Pacific Grove, hop back in the car for more spectacular scenery along the Pacific Coast Highway.