Hearst Castle is hardly a secret, but while the art and architecture are stunning, the best part is the chance to peek beyond the surface extravagance into the private service areas. 

William Randolph Hearst controlled America’s first nationwide newspaper chain, with an estimated one in five Americans reading a Hearst paper. He used his newspaper profits and inherited wealth to build one of the most impressive homes in America. Begun in 1919, it not only became home to one of the best private art collections in the country, but became a vacation spot for Hollywood’s Golden-age elite. Tarzan swam in the pool, Cary Grant snuck around after dark looking for mischief, and David Niven smuggled in liquor that he hid under his bed. Hearst’s crazy home and lifestyle became the inspiration for Orson Welles’s “Citizen Kane.” Today, it is part of California’s park system which runs a variety of tours, including our Cottages & Kitchen tour. 

This tour visits several guest cottages, where you can drool over the art, architecture, and amazing period bathrooms.  

Plus, all tours visit the Roman pool, every photographer’s dream.  

Then we got to my favorite part: the kitchens…

Each tour requires a minibus ride up from the visitors center, allowing glimpses of the old zoo, airfield, and maybe the herds of cattle, whose steaks are available in the gift shop. 

Apparently, there are also spectacular views, but the only view we got was of the fog. 

Luckily, it was clear at sea level, allowing us to finish our day with a visit to the nearby elephant seal colony.